Uw winkelwagen bevat geen producten.


2010 Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Rausch Riesling Kabinett

John Gilman: 93/100Pts

Meer details

21,95 € incl. BTW

Professional reviews:

View from the cellar (John Gilman): The 2010 Kabinett from the Saarburger Rausch is really a stunning example of the vintage. The bouquet offers up a beautiful mélange of lemon blossoms, a touch of orange, tart apples, kaleidoscopic minerality and a lovely topnote of citrus zest. On the palate the wine is medium-full, pure and strikingly transparent, with ripe acids, great focus and superb length and grip on the classically shaped and very intensely flavored finish. As is the case with a few of the drier wines here in 2010, the Rausch Kabinett this year is more filigreed than its 2009 counterpart and a touch more ethereal in style. A beautiful bottle of wine. 2011-2030+. 93."

Wine Advocate: "Review by David Schildknecht # 199 (Feb 2012) Rating: 92

Hanno Zilliken says that his 2010 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett represents the small lot of Auslese that he thought exhibited the greatest sense of levity. Persian and musk melons; peach and cherry; lime and pink grapefruit scent and succulently saturate the palate of this effusive Riesling whose 10.5 grams of acidity are relegated strictly to battery-storage, inconspicuously powering a long but persistently luscious and mouthwatering finish. (Neither do 82 grams of residual sugar come off here as in any way overly sweet.) Salt, struck flint and crushed stone add saliva-inducement and site-typical intrigue, while hints of lemon zest and radish lend an Eiswein-like nippiness to the whole affair, but in an invigorating rather than an at all annoying way. It’s hard to harbor the least reservation about this wine’s minimum two-decade potential, nor the least objection other than to its flying under a false Pradikat flag!

Hanno and Dorothee Zilliken’s 2010 collection has served for some controversy in that they not only – like Schaefers in Graach – adopted the minority position that de-acidification should be to wine, not must, but also – in this respect unlike Schaefers – performed acid-adjustments throughout their residually sweet line-up. Not that the extreme nature of what they eventually bottled could possible fail in itself to raise eyebrows. To declare myself up front (not that this isn’t evident from my scores!): I found this year’s collection chez Zilliken utterly awesome and cannot imagine that somehow seeds of early decline or subsequent disappointment are harbored in any of these wines on account of their levels of acid having been trimmed from the perilous heights where nature had left them. The view is dizzying enough (as befits the name “Rausch”) at the altitudes Hanno Zilliken chose for these Rieslings’ flight paths. “It was the tiny, millerandaged berries with their thick skins and the extreme, protracted shriveling by wind and botrytis that characterized this vintage and that concentrated everything in the grapes including ripe acidity. But even such high extract and ripeness,” insists Zilliken, “often wouldn’t have sufficed to achieve balance. Maybe in their youth, but once the baby fat was gone the acids would have come through too aggressively.” He grants, though, that experience with acid levels as high as these was formerly confined to unripe vintages (such as several he suffered through when he took over his family’s estate in the 1980s) or Eiswein. “If you’re talking about a half a gram or one gram of acid adjustment, you’re talking there about 50 or 100 liters of totally de-acidified and filtered wine blended back into a thousand liter fuder, and I just don’t see any danger. For the first two weeks, all we did was seek- and pick-out shriveled material,” narrates Zilliken, who when I ask him about his “main harvest,” replies, laughing: “What harvest? There really wasn’t much left to do after that! But those grapes that did remain healthy and green were incredibly stable. We let them hang and then picked them at the very end for our dry wines which we didn’t de-acidify. There was no Q.b.A., Kabinett, or Spatlese (he means by must weight): Auslese was the least that we harvested. After the 2005s,” Zilliken sums-up, “we thought we could never again see such a vintage of superlatives; yet 2010 in some ways begins where 2005 left off.” Only in Pradikat-labeling did this differ from previous top Zilliken collections. Waiting for Eiswein was judged a fool’s errand since Eiswein-like concentration and acidity pervaded the lot, which in turn, Zilliken thought, kept any from having genuine B.A. or T.B.A. character. An “I-don’t-know-how-they-did-it, but” feeling accompanied me as I toured what this estate had wrought in 2010."