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2011 Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Saarburger Riesling Kabinett

WIne Advocate: 91/100pts

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14,95 € incl. BTW

Professional reviews:

Wine Advocate: "Review by David Schildknecht # 209 (Oct 2013) Rating: 91 Drink 2013 - 2030 

The 8% alcohol Zilliken 2011 Saarburger Riesling Kabinett displays juicy peach, honeydew melon, cherry and lime on a delicate palate, and brings to bear not only shimmering smoke and stone but remarkably efficacious salinity in a finish that left my salivary glands pumping for joy. Acidity here is analytically speaking remarkably high for the vintage; but more importantly, so is an attendant sense of vivacity and refreshment. Expect this classic of its genre and fine value to be well worth following through at least 2030.

Hanno and Dorothee Zilliken could truly glory in a 2011 harvest whose lowest must weight material was already legally Auslese, thanks to their having managed, despite that fact, to render many wines of genuine delicacy, and absolutely none in which levels of either alcohol or residual sugar became problematic. Mind you, when it comes to residual sugar, I can-t offhand recall wines from any vintage at this estate that seemed overly-sweet, so uncanny and hence storied has been Hanno Zilliken-s knack for showcasing Riesling-s talent at hiding sugar. But he was quite correct when he predicted, -You will be astonished to discover that we managed to render Saarburg Riesling trocken of just 11% alcohol.- That this is indeed consistent with Auslese-level must weights is simply a matter of math and chemistry, but sadly one seldom witnesses it. -We-ve never bottled so much dry wine,- notes Zilliken of his 2011 collection as a whole, -but the conditions were perfect for it.- Picking began on the 4th of that month, as soon as a hot spell had relented, and concluding October 25. In view of the enormous number of botrytis bottlings associated with this vintage, not to mention with past performances of this estate, their absence from the 2011 Zilliken collection initially seems remarkable. But in light of the mixed 2011 results displayed in this genre even at many of Germany-s top Riesling addresses, Hanno Zilliken-s narrative renders that absence understandable. -We started searching and selecting for botrytis,- he explains, -but the material was far from homogeneous, and we just didn-t find the precision for which we look. Already in August we had wasps, and in early September the berries began pressing against one another in the compact bunches on younger vines. It was a hard decision, but I want to be able to sleep easily at night, and finally I decided: -We-re not accepting one single brown berry; only golden shriveled berries.-- Given both the stylistic range of this uniformly successful collection, I found it hard to believe that all of it was bottled already in late March and early April following harvest. Incidentally, although since 2009 - in keeping with VDP strictures and models - Zillikens have bottled numerous wines without the -Rausch- vineyard-designation, all of their non-Ockfen wines, in fact, now officially grow in that site, since the two adjacent Einzellagen - Antoniusbrunnen and Begschlosschen - in which Zilliken had minimal holdings were mustered out two years ago and their acreage subsumed under -Rausch.- (Details on recent changes in labeling at this estate and be found in part in my introduction in Issue 199, and otherwise within the relevant tasting notes comprising this report.)"

John Gilman, View from the Cellar: "The 2011 Saarburger Kabinett all hails from fruit from the Rausch vineyard, though, of course, there is no mention of this on the label. This is a lovely Kabinett, offering up a very stylish nose of lemon, spring flowers, slate, a touch of sea salt and a topnote of citrus zest. On the palate the wine is medium-full, crisp and transparent, with lovely focus and filigree and a long, zesty, slate-driven finish. High class juice and a fine, fine value, the 2011 Saarburger Kabinett will drink beautifully right from the outset. 2012-2025. 90."

Mosel fine wines: "This village Kabinett bottling offers attractive and direct flavors of fruit, which include pink grapefruit, passio fruit, pineapple and, yellow peach, wrapped into a great touch of flowers. The wine is smooth and comfortable on the palate, where it develops a creamy side enhanced by more notes of fruits. This is very enjoyable in a direct and clean way. 2014-2021." 89/100Pts