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2011 Immich-Batterieberg Escheburg Riesling

Wine Advocate: 89/100Pts

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16,95 € incl. BTW

Professional reviews:

Wine Advocate: "Review by David Schildknecht Wine Advocate # 206 (Apr 2013) Rating: 89

The Immich-Batterieberg 2011 Enkircher Riesling Escheburg - a mid-range cuvee drawn on this occasion from around 40% Ellergrub, 40% Batterieberg, and 20% Steffensberg, and not stinting on old, ungrafted vines - is, like the intro-level negociant cuvee "C.A.I.," legally dry, though not labeled as such. There's also a rather austerely stony, ashen undertone, which sets-off the tropical ripeness of fruit flavors, favoring melons, passion fruit, mango and peach. Kollmann seeks to assure me that there was no botrytis in this fruit but it was extremely ripe. A slight majority of the vinification was in tank, which may have enhanced freshness but may also have underscored the wine's austere side. The charm or interactivity and saliva-inducement of the ostensibly lesser "C.A.I." would be welcome here, too, but this is still an excellent and persistent performance that may with a few years acquire other, compensatory virtues.

Gernot Kollmann picked most of his best parcels in the third week of October, although botrytis pressure forced him to attack some vines earlier. Even with such a relatively late harvest and a vintage this ripe, he has been able to bottle wines with finished alcohol between 12-12.5%, in keeping with a continued goal of achieving levity. Vine age, genetic diversity, and lack of grafts have much to do, in Kollmann's (and many another Mosel vintner's) view, with their fruit ripening at relatively low must weights. These wines display the sort of balance that long-time (and last family) proprietor Georg Immich adored, although I regret that one certainly cannot credit as prophetic his belief that halbtrocken would, before the last century was out, become the sensible and aesthetically sensitive norm among "dry" German Rieslings! (Perhaps one day still, though.) He has managed to secure significant numbers of wholesome used barrels of 300-liter capacity, substituting these increasingly for classic 225-liter barriques; but reports that, sadly, he cannot locate suitable used 500- or 600-liter demi-muids nor, for the time being, afford to introduce newly constructed fuders on the classic Mosel model. (For more on the recent evolution - indeed, veritable resurrection - of this venerable estate, please consult my reports in issues 199 and 192. The first, strikingly delicious Chardonnay-dominated wine has appeared from Weingut Rinke's dramatically-steep and -restored mussel-chalk terraces on the Upper Mosel, a Kollmann project about which I'll write further in future, though that arguably belongs in the context of covering neighboring Luxemburg, or even Champagne.)"